Swaledale Journal

Chef George Ryle @grylos, signing off the year with us. A delicious Christmas ham glaze. Nothing clever. Nothing rushed, but some useful tips. Thank you for watching, cooking along, and sticking with us this year. Merry Christmas.

We like doing things properly. Smoking is one of them. It is not sterile or shiny. But have you ever been to a smokehouse in Arbroath? If you have, you will know what this looks like. That black tar on the walls comes from years of smoke and years of meat. That is the point. We still smoke food properly. Many do not. Much of what you see labelled as smoked has barely seen smoke at all. For us, that matters. Food done properly matters. It will matter even more in the years ahead. So when you buy something from us and it says smoked, you know exactly what that means.

Much of the beef on tables and in kitchens at this time of year comes from Bill Whittaker’s herd of Belted Galloway cattle. They graze land in the shadow of Ingleborough, feeding on diverse forage shaped by limestone ground. It is land that suits the cattle, and cattle that suit the land. We usually receive Bill’s beef once a year, when it is ready. It is always a good moment when it arrives. Beef like this cannot be rushed. It follows the season. This is the way we like to work. Smaller farms, running the right cattle on the right ground, producing beef that fits the rhythm of the year. As we head into the new year, we are always keen to hear from other farmers working with native breeds, regenerative systems, and properly pasture-fed livestock. If that sounds like you, and you have something coming through, do get in touch.

Sometimes it takes a new perspective, a fresh angle, to see the value in things. To reverse a perception that might be long held and deeply ingrained. But when we achieve that moment of clarity, the bright light of revelation, the effect can be significant. A door opened and a new future imagined. Too much? Well, probably. But maybe, just maybe your eyes really are being opened to a new way. A future of menu writing with the possibility of a new ‘butchers’ steak’; move over bavette, onglet and Denver and step into the spotlight the chuck eye steak. Traditionally, a chuck, to butchers and chefs is most likely to conjure images of pies, stews and bourguignons. Your archetypal braising cut, or so it had been assumed. We don’t believe it should be confined by these parameters and are rather taken with the idea of it becoming your new favourite secondary steak. The chuck is the muscle that extends from the ribeye into the neck, like a pork collar, meaning it has good natural marbling and a nice, open texture. Cooked pink, with a great crust and basted in brown butter, it truly is an excellent steak. For maximum value, snaffle yourself a whole chuck, trim away some of the meat that runs around the eye, reserving for something braised and delicious, then cut yourself some choice steaks. You won’t regret it.

A rich, booze-laden beast of a pie. This is no ordinary mince pie. It is deep-filled, indulgent and made with real craft by @joshwhiteheadchef of @finer_pleasures. We are down to the last few. Our mailing list heard about them yesterday, which is why they are moving quickly. If you want first sight of future specials, sign up. Josh has been working on this recipe for three years. It is rooted in Hannah Glasse’s 1747 mince pie, where meat was once part of the mix. He has taken that idea and turned it on its head, using the clean, buttery fat from our native-breed cattle in place of suet. The filling is dried fruit soaked since July in Armagnac, aged port, Madeira and homemade ginger wine. There are ceps cooked slowly in brown sugar syrup until they turn to toffee. And yes, a little Bovril. Trust Josh, it works. Bake at 185°C until golden, let it sit for two minutes, then eat warm. A dusting of icing sugar finishes it well. Serve with cream, custard or brandy butter. A very special mince pie, and nearly gone.

Highland cattle get photographed a lot. They are turned into cuddly toys. But beneath the coat is a hardy animal that can stand the worst of a Yorkshire winter. That is why Andy Lambert grazes them high on the Dales, on rough ground where few other breeds would thrive. They are the one of the few cattle that can turn this hard landscape into rich, delicious beef. It feeds our chefs and home cooks across the country. We are grateful for them, and it is always a pleasure to see them on the tops.

A ragù alla bolognese with a few top tips from chef @grylos. Beef, pork, and a little surprise at the end for real depth. Slow cooked until rich, deep, and properly delicious. Find the full recipe on our journal and cook it slow this weekend. What’s your secret to a good bolognese? @grylos @tom_saunderson

We love yellow fat. Do you? This is an old Dexter. You do not see beef like this every day. When one comes in, we get a little excited.