Swaledale Journal

A classic of French cooking, built on combinations that have stood their ground for good reason, and long may they do so. Chicken breast roasted in brown butter, creamy mash worked with plenty of butter and dairy, and a mustard sauce brought together with cream. It reads rich, but it eats with balance. The Dijon and tarragon cut through, lifting the dish and keeping it in check.

A classic of French cooking, built on combinations that have stood their ground for good reason, and long may they do so. Chicken breast roasted in brown butter, creamy mash worked with plenty of butter and dairy, and a mustard sauce brought together with cream. It reads rich, but it eats with balance. The Dijon and tarragon cut through, lifting the dish and keeping it in check. This is food that does not chase anything. It knows exactly what it is.

Filmed on a blustery day at the Harewood House estate, Ellen talks us through the Highland cattle and the wider farming approach shaping the land here. These short films look at how the estate is guiding the land back towards what it once was, using the right livestock for the right terrain and allowing systems to work with the landscape rather than against it. Hardy cattle, able to outwinter on pasture alone, reduce the need for inputs and bring a different kind of balance to the farm. For chefs, this is where the story begins. The flavour comes later, but it is built here, in the fields, through decisions made over time rather than in a single season. It is a strong example of thoughtful farming, where lower inputs and careful management can support both the land and a sustainable margin, all driven by a clear intention to make the estate work for nature as much as it does for people.

We love it when a plan comes together! And this little project with @llewelynslondon provides a great example. It all started with a trip up to Swaledale HQ, to see the butchery and meet the team; bacon, black pudding and egg baps were laid on fo breakfast. Then it was off to see one of our network of farmers; Jim Mallender, over in Thornton in craven. Jim and his family showed us round and held a sort of farming Q&A. Then we cooked some cuts on a bbq and sampled the llewelyns take on a hotpot. Truly bringing farmers and chef together and a wonderful day for all involved. Off the back of the visit a special dinner an d a three course menu of dreams. It celebrates not just our produce and their cooking but also the 6 beautiful years that head chef michael (@skinnylittlefatman) has spent at the helm of this charming restaurant. We are extremely excited to eat and drink tonight to celebrate all those things.

There might not be a food that is more of this generation than fried chicken. It’s eminently Instagram-able (or TikTok-able depending on your age), malleable to various cuisines and extremely delicious. Plus, it has just the right amount of technique, if you know what I mean. The sort of thing that, if you’re not giving it the requisite thought and attention, can be a bit ropey. No danger of that here though… @Grylos has given it the Swaledale treatment, i.e. keeping it simple, making it delicious and showing off our incredible meat. So, with no more than a saffron aioli, some shredded iceberg and a few sliced pickles, this is the fried chicken burger of dreams! Oh, sorry, nearly forgot the crispy chicken skin – told you there was just the right amount of technique. There are few things that we would want to munch down for lunch more than one of these bad boys. Give ‘em a whirl!

Always good to welcome chefs to the butchery. Earlier this week the teams from @llewelynslondon came up to see us. We showed them around the cutting room, talked through how we work, then headed up the hill for a bit of cooking and conversation. For many chefs it is the first chance to see the whole journey. From the farms and fields where the animals are raised, through our ageing rooms, and finally into the kitchens that cook it. If you are a chef and fancy a visit this year, you would be very welcome. Send us a message and we will put the kettle on.

March sits between seasons. Winter has not quite loosened its grip, and there is still time, and need, for fortifying pleasures. A bowl of chicken broth is one of them. It begins with a proper chicken stock. Just bones and time in the pot, slowly giving up their flavour until the liquid runs clear and deeply savoury. If you watched our earlier film on how to break down a whole chicken, this is where the rest of it finds its purpose. From there the broth is built. Pearl barley for substance. Cavolo nero and turnips for the season. Simple things, allowed to do their work in good stock. Just before serving, a small splash of oloroso lifts the whole bowl.

On a recent trip down to London we spent time in some very good kitchens, talking to serious chefs, and the conversation kept returning to farming. Not trends or noise, but where the beef is truly coming from. We kept bringing up the work at the Harewood House estate. It is a project we intend to give real focus to this year, because what has been achieved there, and what continues to develop, deserves attention. On a recent visit we walked the fields with Ellen, spending time with the Highlands that many walkers know from the estate’s mires, quietly becoming unlikely stars of TikTok. Beautiful cattle, carefully and thoughtfully managed. They have been fully outwintered and fed only on pasture. Stock levels are low, grazing is controlled, and the result is clear in their condition. This beef is now heading into some of the most loved kitchens in the country and the response is and feedback is very good. A short film will follow, but for now it is worth recognising the work. We look forward to sharing more from Harewood in the months ahead.