How to cook grouse

A prized delicacy with its deep red, almost maroon flesh, the ‘Glorious Twelfth’ (12th August) marks the beginning of the grouse season. Endemic to the British Isles, this iconic game bird, with its stunning plumage and exquisite flavour, offers a true taste of the wild.

Grouse is often considered an acquired taste, but the dark, rich meat produced by Swaledale owes its exquisite flavour to an exclusive diet on the vast heather moortops of North Yorkshire. Feasting on a carpet of heather tips and bilberries, its flavour is truly one of a kind – heathery yet herbaceous, exceptionally rich yet earthy. The gamey taste intensifies as the season progresses. As these birds are shot in the wild, don’t be surprised if you find the occasional lead shot in the meat.

Grouse is a lean and delicate meat, best cooked rare or medium-rare, and requires a gentle approach. Our fresh birds are meticulously prepared to hold their shape and cook evenly. For young grouse, lightly brown them in a pan before transferring to a hot oven for 5-6 minutes. Typically, one bird serves one person. Older grouse are a bit tougher and are better suited for slow cooking or casseroling at a lower temperature. A cooking time of 45-minutes is ideal for older birds, braised or pot-roasted in stock and good-quality red wine. You can keep the bird whole for this process, but always let it cool in the stock to retain moisture.

1. Remove the grouse from the fridge, take it out of the vacuum packaging, and pat dry any moisture. Let it stand at room temperature for 25-30 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 200°C.
3. Season the bird generously with sea salt, both inside the cavity and on the skin. A few sprigs of thyme or juniper in the cavity can add a nice touch.
4. Heat some oil in a pan over medium heat and gently sear the skin until crispy and golden brown.
5. Add a knob of butter to the pan and baste the bird with the foaming butter, carefully regulating the heat to avoid burning the butter.
6. Lay two slices of pancetta or thinly sliced streaky bacon over the top of the bird.
7. Transfer the pan to the oven (or to an oven tray if the pan isn’t ovenproof) and cook for 14-16 minutes, basting halfway through.
8. The internal temperature should reach 52°C when measured at the thickest part of the breast, close to the bone.
9. Aim to serve the grouse rare, as a pink centre ensures the flesh retains its moisture.
   Once cooked, allow the grouse to rest for at least 5-minutes before serving.

A classic dish in the game cook’s repertoire, sometimes it’s best to keep things simple. One whole grouse makes a perfect single serving. Cook George Ryle’s roast grouse recipe with bread sauce, game chips and liver parfait toast.

Given its seasonality, autumn and winter fruits and vegetables also make excellent accompaniment – think blackberries, raspberries, and beetroot. These sweet and sour notes work brilliantly with the deep, gamey flavour of grouse. As grouse can hold up to strong flavours, it also pairs well with Asian spices. Why not try it next time you fill the kitchen with the warming aromas of curry or tagine?