Recipes, Game Bird Recipes

Partridge with Polenta & Porcini

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A brace of roasted partridge nestled in a pan with creamy polenta and porcini mushrooms, finished with butter and sage

With coveys of French partridge bursting from the maize and early autumn mushrooms pushing up through the forest floor, it feels only natural to bring this landscape to the plate with a seasonal partridge recipe. Let it also be said that it is, of course, delicious. And if you’ve foraged a glut of mushrooms, remember to slice and dry them for use throughout the colder months.

Serves 2

Ingredients

Method

  1. Soak the dried porcini mushrooms in 150ml of boiling water and allow to cool.
  2. Transfer the mushroom soaking liquid and 50g of the butter to a frying pan and simmer briskly. Once the water has evaporated, the mushrooms will begin to take on colour in the butter.
  3. Add the vermouth and let it evaporate completely. Finely grate in one clove of garlic and continue to sauté until the mushrooms are deeply coloured. Season with sea salt and black pepper, then brighten with a touch of lemon juice. Set aside.
  4. Preheat the oven to 200°C.
  5. Bring 800ml of water to a boil in a pot and add the polenta, along with the remaining two whole garlic cloves and the sage leaves. Stir immediately with a whisk to prevent lumps, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the polenta thickens too much toward the end, add a splash more water.
  6. Increase the oven temperature to 220°C.
  7. Rub each partridge with 25g of butter and season generously with salt and pepper. Roast for 14–16 minutes, until the breasts are just pink in the centre.
  8. Once the polenta is cooked, it should have the consistency of soft custard—spreading slightly rather than holding its shape. Remove the garlic and sage, then whisk in the remaining 75g of butter and the grated cheese. If it’s ready before the partridge, loosen with a little water and whisk again just before serving.
  9. To serve, spoon the polenta onto a warmed platter, place the mushrooms in the centre, and arrange the roasted partridge on top. Drizzle with a little good-quality olive oil.
  10. Serve with a simple rocket salad dressed with lemon juice, sea salt, and olive oil, and enjoy with a light Italian red wine.

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Valentine Warner is a chef, food writer, business owner and broadcaster, with a deep interest in nature, travel and provincial food. He describes his cooking style as ‘International Grandmother’ and combines his strong sense of storytelling with his infectious love of cookery. Val has a deep respect and understanding of ingredients, both wild and cultivated, and has the instinctive ability to rustle up hearty and wholesome meals from whatever’s available. Val is an avid proponent of native food sources, and finds common ground with Swaledale in their work to deliver top-notch meat, within a truthful, ethical and high welfare framework. Originally a trained portrait painter, Val has also authored 5 cookbooks, managed his own catering company and is a co-owner of Taqueria, a West London Mexican cafe. Val is also a partner in the Hepple Distillery in Northumberland and Holmen Lofoten hotel on arctic Norway’s Lofoten island.