Some flavour combinations work; no need to adapt, change or mess about with them. Oranges, for example, have enough acidity to break through the fat richness of a plump duck. This same duck contains a sweetness, which, when combined with poached quince and fresh sour oranges, gives your taste buds the delightful satisfaction of a sweet and sour dish more often associated with Chinese cooking.

This recipe celebrates the cold days that persist during autumn and winter. The partridge is wild and sourced from across the Yorkshire Dales and is best enjoyed from September to the end of January. The polenta and dried porcini are a culinary get-out-of-jail card that should be constantly stored in your cupboard/larder, ready for a time when a brace of partridge arrives at your door.