Côte de boeuf is best served thick. The generous marbling of Swaledale’s native breed ribs is what sets them apart; as the meat cooks, the fat softens and runs through the flesh like jelly, leaving it beautifully tender and full of flavour. It is a cut that needs little embellishment, just careful cooking and a proper sauce.
Serves: 4
Prep time: 30 minutes, plus 2 hours room temperature
Cook time: 40 minutes
Ingredients
Method
- Take the steaks out of the fridge at least two hours before you wish to cook them.
- Pick the tarragon and set the leaves to one side. Put the stalks in a small saucepan along with the vinegar, shallot, peppercorns, mace and bay leaf. Add a good splash of water, bring the liquid to the boil, then simmer until half the liquid has evaporated. Strain through a sieve into a bowl and allow to cool.
- Preheat the oven to 160°C. Season the beef very well.
- Heat a heavy pan with a good splash of oil. Brown the beef well on the first side, taking it to the stage where a good crust is starting to develop. Turn it over and do the same again.
- Pull the pan back from the heat and add the salted butter. It will melt and foam most promptly. Using a spoon, baste the ribs repeatedly. Turn down the heat and continue cooking for a further 8–10 minutes, turning occasionally and taking care not to burn the butter.
- Place the ribs in the oven and cook for about 5 minutes, or 10 for a thicker piece of meat. A thermometer can give confidence – 49°C core temperature for rare, 51–53°C for medium-rare.
- Remove from the oven, transfer to a warmed serving platter, spoon over the pan butters and juices, and rest in a warm place for 20 minutes.
- Whilst the meat is resting, rustle up the béarnaise. Place a bowl over a pan of just-boiled water. Add the yolks and vinegar reduction, then whisk to a light pale cream – about two minutes.
- Meanwhile, melt the unsalted butter and ensure it is piping hot. Pour it in drop by drop, increasing your pouring speed once the mixture has emulsified and begun to thicken. Keep a kettle of hot water to hand – if the mixture becomes too thick or looks as if it’s about to split, a splash of hot water will save the day.
- Once done, chop the tarragon leaves and stir them into the sauce with a seasoning of coarse sea salt and cracked black pepper.
- Should, horror of horrors, the béarnaise split, it is easy to correct. Transfer the split sauce to a jug. Place a splash of boiling water in a clean bowl over hot water, then drizzle in the split sauce at a slow, steady pace while whisking constantly. An old-fashioned electric beater can help the timid.
- To serve, slice each rib into 6–8 pieces and divide between four plates with a generous garnish of watercress. The béarnaise is best served in a bowl at the table. As for the bones – there are always a few who like to gnaw on the crisp attachments, so let them.
