This is my recipe for a traditional ragù alla bolognese, a slow-cooked bolognese sauce made with beef and pork mince, with chopped chicken livers folded in towards the end. The result is rich, deep, and properly delicious.
Spaghetti bolognese, or spag bol, is cooked in homes up and down the country, yet many versions have drifted from the ragù of Emilia-Romagna. Since the post-war years, when writers like Elizabeth David brought Mediterranean flavours to British kitchens, the dish has evolved, sometimes far from its roots. This recipe aims to reconnect with the classic method of a true ragù alla bolognese, the kind that rewards time and gentle heat.
I am not from Bologna, nor Italian, and I make no claim to authority. There are many valid interpretations of bolognese sauce. This is mine, a step-by-step approach that delivers a slow-cooked ragù for tagliatelle or lasagne with real depth of flavour.
Serves 6-8
Ingredients
Method
- Set a large casserole or heavy-bottomed pan over a medium heat. Add a splash of olive oil and the pancetta pieces. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes to render plenty of fat.
- Increase the heat. Add the beef and pork mince in 2 or 3 batches and brown well. Leave each batch undisturbed at first to colour, then break up with a spoon. Lightly season with salt. Once browned, transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining mince.
- Reduce the heat. Add the onions, garlic, carrots and celery with a pinch of salt. Cover and cook gently for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring regularly, until soft and sweet but not coloured.
- Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 2 minutes until it turns a deeper brick red. Return the browned mince and pancetta to the pan and mix well.
- Pour in the white wine and cook for 5 minutes to reduce. Add the beef stock and bring to a gentle simmer.
- Wrap the bay leaves and rosemary in the pancetta rind, tie with string, and add to the pan along with the Parmesan rind.
- Regulate the heat so the ragù barely simmers and cook for 1½ to 2 hours, stirring occasionally, until thick and glossy.
- Add the chopped chicken livers and cook for 10 minutes. Take the pan off the heat.
- Remove the herb bundle and Parmesan rind. Add the butter and a few good grinds of black pepper, then stir to combine.
- Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve with al dente pasta and plenty of grated Parmesan.


